Hindi Krafts

Everything you need to know about

Zardozi Embroidery

What is Zardozi Embroidery?

Zardozi embroidery came to India from Persia.
Its exacting interpretation, “Zar” which means gold and “Dozi” which means embroidery, alludes to the way toward utilizing metallic-bound threads to sew adornment on to different textures.

This overwhelming and complex style of design is said to have been carried to India with the Mughal conquerors.

It found a base with a huge number of craftsmen who have passed on this exchange among their families and neighbourhood networks.
While the Indian city of Lucknow turned into a significant place for this work of art, its definite beginning is obscure.
In any case, many romanticized stories encompass its starting point.
Till date, various small scale ventures spend significant time in Zardozi.
It is especially mainstream in nations like Iran, Pakistan and India.

How did it begin?

Its punctual notices in Vedic literary works, the Ramayana, and the Mahabharata.

The first procedure, known as “Kalabatun”, utilized silk threads enclosed by genuine gold and silver wires to brighten glossy silk and velvet textures.

Alongside the strings, other extravagant embellishments, for example, sequins, beads, valuable and semi-valuable stones and pearls were likewise sewn on.

At its pinnacle, it was utilized in the Mughal Era by the eminence.

Lucknow turned into a focal centre for this weaving method during Aurangzeb’s reign in the twelfth century, when this magnificent work of art was empowered under decision Mughal beneficiaries.

What inspired for Zardozi embroidery?

Zardozi has more elaborate and overwhelming designs, with a 3D quality to their themes.

This is a comparable style to the Delhi Zardozi work, though Hyderabad and Agra will, in general, keep designs moderate, with an emphasis on basic however huge themes.

The motivation for all themes has consistently been nature.

Blossoms, leaves and trees, birds as well as animals, the national environment of India leaks into all Zardozi weaving.

Are there any requirements?

  • Cotton thread
  • Zari thread 
  • Bullion embroidery thread
  • Beads, sequins or different embellishments
  • Thread snips
  • Your preferred cloth
  • Hoop
  • Needle

Generally, the craftsmen utilize a unique sort of Zardosi needle – Aari needle to do this weaving. This needle works by pulling the string from under the texture and working the Zardosi string into the structure.

How is Zardozi prepared?

The method, instruments and crude materials used to make Zardozi are same across India and stick to the initial and old procedures.

The fundamental method is 4 overlap: 


This is the underlying phase of the procedure, where the whole structure is attracted on to a following sheet and openings are made along the followed design utilizing a needle.

While the examples from the Mughal time frame all contained complex nature, flower and leaf themes, contemporary examples are more mathematical stylizations of comparative themes.



In request to follow the structure on to a texture, the papers with the examples are set on a level table with the texture underneath.

Lamp oil and Robin Blue arrangement are made and wads of fabric are utilized to plunge in it, which are then cleaned against the following sheet.

This empowers the ink from the sheet to leak into the texture.


Setting the frame or “Adda”

The design imprinted texture is extended over a wooden casing.

The size of the edge can, for the most part, be adjusted to the size of the texture.

Utilizing bamboo or wooden competes, it is then loosened up and firmly held to give the material a uniform strain.

The craftsmen at that point lounge around this edge to start the weaving work. 



A stitch like a needle that is fixed to a wooden stick called “Ari” is utilized to complete the weaving.

Instead of a customary needle and string, the Ari incredibly accelerates the work as the craftsman can pass the strings both above and underneath the texture.

Contingent upon the multifaceted nature of structure and number of craftsmen chipping away at a piece, this stage can take anyplace from a day to 10 days.

So a definitive instrument is a consistent hand and deft fingers.

How are the designs created?

Designs are regularly made utilizing gold and silver strings and can join pearls, dabs, and valuable stones.

It is utilized as enrichment for a wide scope of utilization, including garments, family unit materials, and creature features.

Generally, it was utilized to enhance the dividers of illustrious tents, casings, tapestries and the gear of grand elephants and ponies.

What are the available styles and variety?

The raw material to make unique Zardozi strings is a compound of gold and silver.
This sensitive combination wire is made by liquefying ingots that are squeezed through punctured steel sheets. 
They are additionally straightened by pounding and afterwards changed over into wires.
Once out of the heater, these wires are bent around silk strings to frame the thicker, spring-like Zardozi string.
This springy nature of string called “Dabka” is credited as a Lucknow strength.
It is regularly joined with sequins, glass and plastic dabs.

Zardosi in itself is an assortment of Zardozi that varies from different types of weaving that bear a similar name, done in different urban areas.
Its extravagant Mughal impacts, for example, contrast from the Tamil impacts of Zardozi done in Chennai.

What is its positioning today?

The scope of items utilizing Lucknow Zardozi today are unlimited; dresses, coats, handbags, belts, stoles, shoes, and so on. 
While there was a critical drop in the prevalence of this speciality post-freedom, in the last 50 odd years it has seen a consistent returned with huge nearby design houses carrying it to the cutting edge at Fashion Weeks.

Numerous originators have sourced this craftsmanship from towns that have been having some expertise in Zardozi for ages.
Weddings, celebrations and Bollywood films have additionally been urgent in bringing back resplendent Zardozi textures that despite everything hold their work of art, old-world appeal, though with more current structures.

Has there been any advancement?

The significant advancement in Zardozi has been found lately with its significant business notoriety.
With the assistance of particular machines and substitute material mixes, Zardozi is accessible unmistakably more economically than any other time in recent memory.

The extravagance wanted at the hour of Mughal eminence is progressively being supplanted with more straightforward and more monetary structures.
Pocket-accommodating alternatives like copper and engineered wires can be seen rather than gold and silk strings.

The large preferred position of this is to make Zardozi undeniably more effectively accessible and open to even more extensive client base, while as yet keeping up the conventional Lucknow variants as oddity speculations.

How to maintain Zardozi?

Considering Zardozi work comprises of sophisticated weaving that occasionally stands out over the surface, it’s fitting to keep up its sheen and build up with dry cleaning.

How is it positioned in Iran?

Zardozi is significant craftsmanship in Persian culture.
It is known around the nation by names, for example, Zar-Douzi, Kam-Douzi, Gol-Douzi and Kaman-Douzi. 
These days it is more mainstream in Hormozgan, particularly in Bandar-e Lenge, Bandar-e Abbas, and Minab.

How is Persian Zardozi done?

  • A few people sew the essential texture with Bakhie to deliver novel examples and hues, for example, the Baloch’s Souzan-Douzi, Rasht’s Qollab-Douzi and Kerman’s Pate-Douzi. 
  • Much sew with less thickness of work on the first texture, they cross the strings all through the woof of the texture and sew them to one another to frame a vividly designed grid, for example, Sekke-Douzi or Qollab-Douzi in Isfahan. 
  • A third path is to sew an assortment of examples on the first texture with gold and silver strings, for example, Dah-Yek-Douzi, Naqade-Douzi, Tafte-Douzi, Kous-Douzi, Zari-Douzi or Golabatoun-Douzi.

What are some interesting facts?

  • Generally, just men worked on Zardozi embroidery, primarily in Lucknow and Kolkata.
  • These days in urban areas like Hyderabad, there are a large number of craftsmen, out of which around 10-15% are ladies. 
  • Small towns around Lucknow keep the custom of this speciality inside their family and network.
  • Kids begin learning these procedures as ahead of schedule as 6 years of age. 
  • Famous people like Aishwarya Rai and Priyanka Chopra have frequently decided to wear sarees and lehengas with Zardosi work for some, film debuts.

Did we miss something?

Let us know in the comments down below!


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